What Pitmaster Aaron Fletcher Learned from Parking Lot Barbecue

As a seasoned pit boss, Aaron Fletcher already knew his way around fire and smoke when he signed on to help open Nashville’s Noko with Chef Junior Vo. But Vo presented a new challenge: playing “smoker Tetris” with minimalist equipment in the Tennessee capital’s famously unpredictable weather. After a year and a half, a smoker upgrade, and a roster of smash hit fusion dishes—think: burnt end lettuce wraps, wagyu brisket, and smoked chicken with wasabi white sauce—Fletcher shares what he’s learned. Find out which barbecue masters he reveres, what wood he favors, if he’s a reverse or direct flow kind of guy, and why he keeps coming back to the pit in this week’s featured chef essay.